Paint and Assembly Directions

Painting and assembly directions are meant for Epic Aberration Games Ancient Dragon but the basic techniques can be applied to any fantasy gaming miniature metal or plastic. The techniques discussed here are basics that can be applied by the inexperienced or intermediate painter. Advanced techniques will be added in future including use of the air brush.

Materials: Here is a list of materials and tools you will need to complete your Dragon.

1. Paint - the paint shown in picture is Liquitex water based acrylic gel in a tube, we recommend a water based acrylic in a jar for inexperienced painters because it is pre-mixed as a liquid. There are many choices for quality hobby paints. Some makers are Testors, Humbrol and Pactra.

2. No. 11 Exacto knife - you will need a hobby knife for cleaning any sprue or flash from your miniature and to remove any extra glue when assembling. Your Ancient Dragon will need very little work before painting but some other miniatures require more cleaning.

3. Brushes - picture shows some examples of brushes you will need. We recommend that you use high quality horse hair artist brushes and not brushes with synthetic fibers. I use mainly two brushes, a small brush with a flat edge for dry-brushing and a very fine pointed brush for detail work.

4. Glue - many types of glue will work. Picture shows J-B Kwik Weld for metal which is a two part five minute epoxy. This is what we recommend for your Ancient Dragon, super glue will work on smaller pieces such as the Mermaid.

5. Magnification - not shown in picture and not necessary to paint your Dragon but it will help you do a better job with better final results. On the low end, a magnifying glass will work. Magnification lights work real well but are more expensive.

Techniques: The main technique for painting a three dimensional item is Dry-Brushing. Start by dipping your brush in the paint, then paint strokes on a piece of paper until there is very little paint coming off the brush, then apply brush to the miniature. This technique will allow paint to be applied to the outer edges of the detail without running into the cracks and crevices. In some instances you will need more paint on the brush and in some less, it will depend on how much paint you need to apply. Always start with the darkest color and work your way up to the lightest. Your first coats you will want the brush to have more paint, as you get to the lighter color you will want to have very little paint on the brush so it just coats the sharpest details. Do a little experimenting before you start and you will feel more confident as you get the hang of it.

Step #1 Wash your miniature before painting to remove any dust or contaminants from the manufacturing process. Make a solution of dish soap and water in a container (Dawn or any other will work). Dip a soft paint brush in the solution and "paint" it over your pieces, then rinse with clean water. Let dry thoroughly. Use your hobby knife to remove any flash, sprue or imperfections.

Step #2 Glue the neck and tail to the main body. J-B Kwik Weld sets up in five minutes but it does take longer to achieve it's full strength. We recommend that you let each assembly point stand for two hours or more before moving on to the next step.

Step #3 Glue the assembled body, neck and tail to the base. Hold the piece until it is set, then block (support) piece and let stand for two hours or more.

Step #4 Paint all the pieces with a basecoat. You can use any color, I prefer black as it leaves black in the recessed areas and will make the highlights stand out and give the miniature more realism once painted.

Step #5 Start painting! This picture shows a progression of dry-brushing from the darker color to the lighter color. I started by painting the larger skin/scaled areas first. I decided to go with greens for my dragon, but remember dragons can be any color and have many kinds of markings, the only limit is your imagination.

Step #6 This picture shows all the skin areas painted. Next paint the belly scales and back ridge, then the base. The wing membranes are the last large part to paint. Use dry brush to paint the tail spikes so the swirled pattern stands out. Finally use your detail brush with wet paint to paint the claws, teeth and eyes.

Step #7 Use your hobby knife to scrape off any excess paint from gluing surfaces.

Step #8 Glue right rear leg - hold pieces until glue sets, then block and let stand for two hours or more. Glue left leg - hold pieces until glue sets, then block and let stand for two hours.

Step #9 Glue right front leg - hold pieces until glue sets, then block and let stand. Glue left front leg - hold pieces until glue sets, then block and let stand.

Step #10 Glue head to neck - hold pieces until glue sets, then block and let stand. Glue tail spikes onto tail - hold until glue sets, you should not have to block the tail spikes.

Step #11 Glue left wing to body - hold until glue sets, then block and let stand overnight (12-24 hours). Glue the right wing to body last - hold until glue sets, then block and let stand overnight. Now you can just sit back and enjoy!

Odin Art and Collectables is UpFront

12/22/2011